Lotte Biermasz
graduate of AMFI Amsterdam Fashion Institute, Amsterdam


The inspiration of my graduation collection began with my interest in what colours one’s artistic vision. How one’s roots and education put their signature on artistic thoughts and works. A search for my origin and relation to East-European culture brought me to a synthesis of on one hand the rational me, and on the other hand the existence of other, more complicated feelings. I wondered whether this struggle of contradictions could lead to a satisfying artistic mixture.


Departing from the fascinating Russian ballets of the 1920s, that beautifully assembled the east and west, I gradually became interested in the changing image of the woman in that time. How she transformed, due to her changing role in society, from pure femininity, sensuality and dependence into a more androgynous and practical being. This conflict between femininity in the former sense and the new female image, produced tension, but led in the end to a synthesis of both. This resulted in a resting point, a certain stillness, a serenity.

I tried to reproduce this feeling of serenity, to find a synthesis of being on one hand practical and comfortable and on the other hand still extremely feminine. This resulted in a modern, modest collection. The silhouette leaves a freedom of movement, while the choice of fabrics still provides the suggestion of feminine shapes. Fabric manipulations refer to the longing for luxury and extravagance that came along with the oriental sets of the Ballets Russes, approached however, in a modern way.


By following my senses the collection became calm, white and pure. It represents the practical and austere side of the female without loosing her dreamy and exotic side. A side that will come forward in the form of subtle references to sensuality.


Photo: Chantal Spieard